http://www.nationaldriller.com/articles/89014
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Monday, December 30, 2013
Sunday, December 29, 2013
Imagine, no power co bill, no leather/no wind/no sun issues, Just Water
Water stock with no power company @ 7 g/minute
Stock Watering ---Independent of Power Companies using 1/2 hp submersible No windmills---doesn't matter if any wind, no cylinder leather problems, water even if no sun, no solar pumps requiring periodic filter cleaning, just a reliable supply of water. Submersible usually last for ten to twenty years. You will not get that reliability from any other approach! Basic components: 1/2 hp pump--115 vac--no control box----$250 ----- 2400 watt, 24 vdc input, 120 vac output-----$600 ----- 2 12 volt deep discharge batteries -----$300 ---- 100 Watt solar panel--24vdc output---- $400 ( see buyers guide on this site) ---- Timer ---$100 ----- Run pump 60 minutes for 400 gallon per day---ten minute segments --6 over day light hours to distribute load on battery. For less water per day, reduce run time accordingly. Pump output 7 gallon per minute. For 200 gallon per day, run pump .5 hour. ( six 5 minute segments ) One hour run = 370 watt- hours discharge. 7 hours of solar output at 100 watts = 700 watt-hours input. You have the flexibility of running for longer periods by utilizing a 1000 watt ac generator..
Even if you have above ground system failure, you can still run pump with a 500 dollar generator in the back of you p/u. Over ten years you pay power company 6000 dollars. Doubt if you would spend 3000 on repairs to this system over ten years.
Saturday, December 28, 2013
Water stock--no power co., no wind/sun
Water stock with no power company @ 7 g/minute
Stock Watering ---Independent of Power Companies using 1/2 hp submersible No windmills---doesn't matter if any wind, no cylinder leather problems, water even if no sun, no solar pumps requiring periodic filter cleaning, just a reliable supply of water. Submersible usually last for ten to twenty years. You will not get that reliability from any other approach! Basic components: 1/2 hp pump--115 vac--no control box----$250 ----- 2400 watt, 24 vdc input, 120 vac output-----$600 ----- 2 12 volt deep discharge batteries -----$300 ---- 100 Watt solar panel--24vdc output---- $400 ( see buyers guide on this site) ---- Timer ---$100 ----- Run pump 60 minutes for 400 gallon per day---ten minute segments --6 over day light hours to distribute load on battery. For less water per day, reduce run time accordingly. Pump output 7 gallon per minute. For 200 gallon per day, run pump .5 hour. ( six 5 minute segments ) One hour run = 370 watt- hours discharge. 7 hours of solar output at 100 watts = 700 watt-hours input. You have the flexibility of running for longer periods by utilizing a 1000 watt ac generator..
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Friday, December 27, 2013
Dumpster pump jack
| Dempster Worm Gear Pump Jack Installation | DEAN BENNETT SUPPLY | ||||||||||||||
The Dempster Pump Jack is designed to operate a hand pump or windmill pump, with an electric motor, gasoline engine or other power source. The kits described adapt the basic gearcase for the first two drives. In addition, it can be powered by any other source which is adaptable to provide up to the maximum of 40 strokes per minute ( 640 RPM shaft speed ). The basic pump body for which this jack is designed, has a 3-1/2" outside diameter barrel and a 7/16" x 1" flatbar, to which the crosshead is attached. The gearcase can be attached to slightly larger or slightly smaller barrels by carefully shimming and positioning. The pump jack may be used as a backup to a windmill to provide water on calm days, or if the windmill is out of service. However, since the relative strokes will not coincide, only one pinned connection must be used at a time. Ie: you can not run a windmill and pump jack at the same time. For instance, the mill wood pole must be removed from the flatbar when the pump jack is to operate. The hand pump handle must be disconnected when the jack is to be operated, just as the handle must be unpinned or the jack must be removed when the mill is operated. The handle must only be attached when pumping by hand (jack may stay in place on hand pump with the flatbar pin removed). For this reason, carefully study the operating methods to be used to determine the appropriate positioning of the gearcase and the set of pitman holes to be used to attach the crosshead. | |||||||||||||||
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| Pump jack load limits for the BB33 pump jack are as follows. The BB33 Dempster should not be used with a greater than 1/2 hp electric motor, or a 1-1/2 hp gasoline engine. The speed must not exceed 40 strokes per minute (640 RPM shaft speed) under any circumstances. Warranty is void if the load limits or the recommended capacities are exceeded. GEARCASE TO PUMP BODY The length of the pump jack stroke is 6" and will generally not be the same as the windmill or hand pump stroke. For this reason, each power source must be attached separately. --Operate the pump jack, and locate the center of the stroke, and hold the pump rod in this position. The center of the flatbar pin hole at this distance above the fulcrum top, is the primary reference point used to determine positioning of the gear case. --Mark the hand pump body 41-1/4" or 44-1/4" below this reference point, as appropriate to attach the pitmans for clearance of cranks, and the pump handle, ect. --Secure the gear case to the hand pump body opposite the spout on the hand pump, using the U-bolt at this point. Tighten the nuts securely, but be careful not to crack the hand pump or the gear case bodies by over-tightening. --Always pin the hand pump handle to the flatbar to hold or position the pump rod when changing connections. In some case, when disconnected, the free rod may drop far enough that the hole will not be accessible to attach the handle. --Slide the cross head over the flatbar, however do not pin now. --Attach single hole end of the wood pitmans to the crank arms, securing them with flat 1" washers and 3/16" x 1-1/2" cotter pins. --Assemble cross bars to the cross head, and install bars in appropriate holes in pitman arms. Secure the assembly with a 3/8" x 1-1/2" bolt and hardware on each end. --Position flatbar in cross head and install pump pin. Secure with 1/8" x 1" cotter pin. Remove the hand pump handle. --FILL EACH SIDE of the main frame crank case, through the top plug to the Oil Level plug with 80-90 winter weight gear oil, which takes approximately 1/3 pint each end. --Be sure to replace the plugs after filling with gear oil. --Turn pump jack through several revolutions by rotating the drive pulley counter-clockwise, by hand, to be sure there is no interference mechanically or at either end of the stroke. Double check crank rotation as noted by arrow on the gear case. DO NOT OPERATE WITHOUT LUBRICATION IN CRANK CASE. | |||||||||||||||
PERFORMANCE
| Electric Motor Drive is to be 1750 RPM with a 5/8" shaft 1/2 HP maximum. -Attach the motor bracket to the cover plate with 3 3/8" x 3/4" cap screws included in the cover bosses. The motor bracket should be installed flat side up. -Attach the motor rails, with the flat side down and the ears for the bolts facing toward the gear case. Use 2 bolts 5/16" x 1-1/4" cap screws and nuts each. The three components are slotted to adapt to the motor and for motor adjustment purposes. -Install the motor on the motor bracket on the motor rails loosely, opposite the flat sides. IE on top. Insert 5/16" x 1-1/4" cap screws from below, head must fit into slots. -Attach the 8" V-pulley to the pump jack shaft with 1/4" square x 2-1/4" key and tighten set screws in the pulley hub securely. -Attach the smaller 2-1/2" V-pulley to the motor shaft with 1/4" key and set screws. -Install V-belt. Slide motor on rails to align pulleys and then slide the rails on the motor bracket to adjust belt tension. Proper tension is 1/2" to 3/4" detention midway between the pulleys. Tighten all rail and motor mounting hardware. -Motor shaft MUST rotate counter-clockwise as viewed from end of shaft. IE: facing the motor end looking at the pulley and then the motor. -Be sure the crank case is lubricated before operating the pump jack. | ||||||||||||||
Wednesday, December 25, 2013
Meggers
Megaohmmeters for preventative maintenance
Figure 1. Megohmmeters (meggers) are electrical meters used to check the resistance and condition of the motor windings and the condition of the refrigeration and oil environment around the motor windings. A megger is nothing but a giant ohmmeter that creates a very large dc voltage (usually 500 volts dc) from its internal battery. The meter will read out in megohms (millions of ohms). Any motor winding or electrical coil can be checked with a megger. A megohmmeter's main function is to detect weak motor winding insulation and to detect moisture accumulation and acid formations from the motor windings to ground before they can cause more damage to motor winding insulation. When dealing with HVACR hermetic and semi-hermetic compressor motors, as contaminants in the refrigerant and oil mixture increases, the electrical resistance from the motor windings to ground will decrease. Because of this, regular preventative maintenance checks can be made with a megohmmeter and can signal early motor winding breakdown from a contaminated system when accurate records are kept. One probe of the megger is connected to one of the motor winding terminals, and the other probe to the shell of the compressor (ground). Note: Make sure metal is exposed at the shell of the compressor where the probe is attached so that the compressor's shell paint is not acting as an insulator to ground. When a button is pushed and held on the megger, it will apply a high dc voltage between its probes and measure all electrical paths to ground. It is important to disconnect all wires from the compressor motor terminals when megging a compressor motor. Also, read the instructions that come with the meter to determine what time interval to energize the megger when checking winding or coils. If possible, it is a good idea to run the motor for at least one hour, disconnect power, disconnect all electrical leads, and then quickly connect the megger to the motor. This will give a more meaningful comparison between readings for the same compressor on different days, because of the approximate same winding temperatures. Good motor winding readings should have a resistance value of a minimum of 100 megohms relative to ground. In fact, good motor winding resistance should be between 100 megohms and infinity. Figure 1 lists megohm readings with varying degrees of contamination and motor winding breakdown. Because of the very high resistance of the motor winding insulation, a regular ohmmeter cannot be used in place of the megger. A regular ohmmeter does not generate enough voltage from its internal battery to detect high resistance problems like deteriorated winding insulation, moisture, or other system contamination. Listed below are some other important tips service technicians should know about the use of a megohmmeter: • Never use a megger if the motor windings are under a vacuum. • Meggers can be used for other electrical devices other than electric motors. • Always consult with the meter manufacturer or user's manual for detailed instructions on megging other electrical devices like coils. • Meggers are often used in preventive maintenance programs, especially before a contractor signs a preventive maintenance contract to determine condition of the electrical devices. • Any megger with a higher voltage output than 500 volts DC should be used by an experienced technician. A high voltage for too long of a time may further weaken or fail motor windings and the winding insulation could be damaged by the testing procedure. Publication date: 12/05/2011
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Metal casing
Metal cased wells
Many old wells pumped by windmills are rusting and decaying. Once casing collapses, the well is useless depending where the casing gives away. It is highly recommended all metal cased well have 3 or 4 inch plastic casing installed.
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Sunday, December 22, 2013
Pump rod
Pump rods ( sucker rod)
7/16 or 3/8 inch are normally used. They should be replaced if worn excessively, and couplings are subject to significant wear. The critical area is around well pipe couplings, the rod couplings must not have interference , this is controlled by the length of rod protruding from cylinder, and distance cylinder pulled off bottom when coupling rod to mill pump rod ( which must be all the way down). On first stroke verify well pipe not pulled up.
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Saturday, December 14, 2013
Wednesday, December 11, 2013
Sunday, December 8, 2013
Wednesday, December 4, 2013
Submersible vs. Solar
1/2 hp submersible 110VAC vs. Low flow solar pumps
A major draw back for solar pumps is well must be clean or you will be periodically pulling pump to clean sock filter. Low flow not an issue with 1/2 hp sub. Plus problem inherent with low flow.
Apparently pump is susceptible to crud in well or filter would not be required.
Apparently pump is susceptible to crud in well or filter would not be required.
Monday, December 2, 2013
Metal cased wells
Many old wells pumped by windmills are rusting and decaying. Once casing collapses, the well is useless depending where the casing gives away. It is highly recommended all metal cased well have 3 or 4 inch plastic casing installed.
Causes of equipment failures
Causes of Equipment Failures
Control boxes, timers, circuit breaker panels, knife switches, & wire are all susceptible to weather, mice, rats, & corrosion. Even crimped fittings fail due to corrosion. I have seen wire insulation heavily damaged by rodents. So, checking for this kind of damage ought to be top of the list. Also, pressure switches and timer switches usually need replacement after a few years.
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